As we reflect on the 2023 growing season, our 25th harvest of Black Chicken, it’s impossible not to feel both grateful and a bit in awe of what Mother Nature handed us this year. 2023 was, by all measures, a pristine growing season.
2023 Heminway Vineyard
Zinfandel, Napa Valley
New Single Designate
There once was a man who loved the poetry of Homer, the art of sculpture, and the wines of Bordeaux. Although born in New York and having spent harvests in France as a young college student, in 1968 Jay Heminway found himself a professor of sculpture in Berkeley (that Fulbright Scholarship in Italy paid off!), surrounded by a tight-knit group of friends who embraced an appreciation for local food and wine. In pursuit of such treasures, Jay rode his motorcycle up to Napa and discovered a property high above the valley floor in the Vaca Mountains with not much more than a cold-water hunting cabin, a burned-down barn, and an abandoned Fleetwood Cadillac. A local contractor urged him: “these soils are fantastic—plant Zinfandel!” And, so, Jay did. (Of course, that gentleman was Italian!)
Jay established Green & Red Vineyard in the 1970s and quickly became renowned by critics and consumers alike for his Zinfandels and Petite Sirahs. Jay’s wines soon became the house wine of the acclaimed local food and wine mecca Chez Panisse Restaurant in Berkeley. No wonder, as among that tight-knit group of friends in the `60s was none other than Alice Waters.
While he benefited from consultants from time to time, Jay was the winemaker of Green & Red right up to his passing in 2019. At that time, his daughter Tobin Heminway (former preschool student of aforementioned Alice Waters!) and her husband Ray Nicola Hannigan relocated from their home and successful careers in New York City to take the helm of this Napa Valley pioneer property. While this relocation had always been the plan—and they both had spent many harvests under Jay’s tutelage, as well as promoting the wines on the road with him—the abrupt shift was a bit of a shock. Nonetheless, they jumped in with both feet and organically found their individual roles in the business, each gravitating toward what they liked and happily relinquishing what they didn’t to the other. Lawyer Ray might handle contracts while filmmaker/interior designer Tobin might take care of label design and… number crunching?!?… but they both love working the harvest! It is all hands on deck with the wearing of many hats for these two.
Remember that Italian contractor of the property who said the soils were great? Well, he was right, they are extraordinary. So extraordinary that Tegan Passalacqua, Winemaker at Turley Wine Cellars, thinks the hillside Green & Red vineyard sites could be an AVA of their own. Why? Because the soils are made up of California’s designated State Rock Green Serpentine and the unique Red Chert…thus the vineyard’s name. Why does this matter? Because these soils are testaments to the fact that California is geologically young, having emerged from the ocean only “recently”, giving the soils a marine-influenced profile rare to such high elevation. Many believe these unique soils are responsible for the wines’ renowned, reserved character and food-friendliness.
Of the three Green & Red vineyards, Biale sources its fruit from their Tip Top Vineyard, 1800-2000 feet elevation—above the fog line. The temperature swings at that altitude are more moderate, leading to more even ripening of the grapes. We’re not the only ones who know good Zin when we see it. We are privileged to be among an elite group of vintners sourcing fruit from Green & Red: Turley, Joel Peterson’s Once & Future, Ridge, and Brown Estate all work with this extraordinary vineyard.
When Tobin and Ray give tours of their mountainside vineyards they are often asked if Jay continued to sculpt once he moved to the Valley. Their response: “Of course! Just look at these beautiful vineyards. Jay simply changed his medium.”
Winemaker Notes:
Vibrant notes of raspberry, cherry, crushed peppercorns, and chaparral on the nose. Broad across the palate with notes of bramble, strawberry preserves, lavender, and cedar all driven by balanced acidity and framed by moderate tannins.
Cases Produced: 294
2023 Aldo’s Vineyard
Zinfandel, Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley
The Path Less Traveled
Benedetto Aldo Biale was born the week the stock market crashed on October 24, 1929, to Italian immigrants, Pietro and Cristina Biale, who lived at the Gier Ranch on Napa Valley’s Mount Veeder. It was not until 1937 that Pietro and Cristina (Nonna) were able to save enough money to purchase a farm of their own. They purchased a piece of property on the northern end of the city of Napa, located in what is now referred to as the Oak Knoll District. Aldo soon found himself at the young age of 13 to be the man of the house as his father tragically lost his life in a mining accident. As an only child, Aldo stepped up to help his mother farm the ranch of walnuts, White Leghorn chickens, prunes, vegetables, and grapevines. Cristina Biale was known for her savvy business sense and was a force to be reckoned with. She was able to coordinate a Napa land deal by trading part of her farm that was desired for homes in return for the adjacent Zinfandel vineyard. Aldo nurtured these Zinfandel grapevines and sold them to the large Cooperative in Napa Valley and other wineries while always keeping a healthy stock of jugs in his cellar of those “black chickens.”
From the beginning, Aldo did not follow any trends of different grape varietals that were being planted in the Napa Valley and made it his mission to preserve the original vines on the farm. Zinfandel once made up 25% of the grapes planted in Napa, but now makes up a scant 2%. Aldo learned how to make wine from relatives and began selling the family wine to friends and neighbors for extra income for the family. He always had the dream of having a winery of his own to showcase his historic Zinfandel vineyard. It was not until 1991 when his eldest son, Bob Biale, joined him on the venture to make the first fully legal vintage, and thus Aldo’s Vineyard Zinfandel debuted. It was at that time that the vineyard was officially named Aldo’s Vineyard in honor of his hard work, dedication, and love of Zinfandel.
Winemaker Notes:
Warm and inviting with rich aromas of bramble fruits, white pepper, and sandalwood. Generous and enveloping on the palate with flavors of black cherry, baking spices, plum, and dark chocolate all framed by supple tannins leading to a long finish.
Cases Produced: 336
2023 Beatty Ranch
Zinfandel, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley
Rare Air and Grapes at 1400 feet
Napa Valley’s true greatness lies in its diversity. There are 17 AVA’s (American Viticultural Areas) throughout Napa County, each differing in geological traits, such as soil type and weather patterns. High in Napa Valley’s eastern Vaca Mountain range, Howell Mountain is solely defined by its elevation.
Howell Mountain was named after rancher Isaac Howell who lived on the mountain to raise cattle in the 1840s. In the 1870s, Brun and Chaix was the first winery to bring critical acclaim to the mountain. Following suit, Winnifield Keyes planted vines on Howell Mountain and built his winery in 1888. The wines grown in this sub-region during the 1880s gained popular attention, especially when they were featured in many prestigious international competitions. More than a century later, Howell Mountain became Napa Valley’s first sub-AVA in 1983, currently under the leadership of Mike Beatty and other AVA pioneers.
Starting at an altitude of 1400 ft. above sea level, the vineyards are uniquely positioned just above the Pacific Ocean’s marine layer which encroaches along the length of Napa Valley daily, creating excellent growing conditions. At this lofty, sunny location above the fog, the vines generally receive all-day sun. Summer daytime temperatures are cooler, and nights are warmer. The steady breezes allow the vines to mature more gradually throughout the moderate growing season. The volcanic soil is well-drained, and the sun-soaked vines produce small berries with intense flavors and ripe tannins. Due to these conditions, Zinfandel thrives here.
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes:
Aromas of raspberry, cedar, fresh fig, white pepper, and sage on the nose. Broad on the palate with mouth coating tannins and flavors of blackberry, baking spice, violets, and dried herbs all punctuated by cranberry high tones.
Cases Produced: 296
2023 Black Chicken
Zinfandel, Napa Valley
Necessity…the Mother of Invention
When Aldo was producing jugs of Zinfandel in the barn to earn extra income for his family, there were a couple of hoops to jump through to get your hands on one of these tasty jugs. The Biale phone used a party line system where it was shared amongst the neighbors. Of course, every neighborhood had their quota of nosy neighbors that liked to listen in on conversations anonymously, a young Bob Biale included! So Aldo got creative when it came to including a jug of his wine with the orders of eggs, prunes, and walnuts, to keep the nosy neighbors—and not to mention—the highly regulated industry of commercial winemaking, from becoming the wiser. Aldo cleverly incorporated a new offering to his farm—the “black chicken.” The phone calls started coming in with requests for a dozen eggs, some zucchinis, and a “black chicken”. This “eggs and a black chicken” ordering system went on for years and Aldo always delivered the goods on Fridays in his 1940 Studebaker. Many years went by without a hitch and the code name was a secret until Aldo’s young, out-of-the-loop, Piemontese bride, Clementina, answered the phone and found him out: “Aldo, today a man on the phone wanted a black chicken–I told him we only have white ones that lay eggs!”
It was not until 1999 that the first fully legal Black Chicken Zinfandel was produced, which has now risen to be the icon that it is today. The grapes are sourced from the same family vineyard that Aldo, Nonna, Bob, and the Biale family have farmed their whole lives, with additional grapes predominately from the Oak Knoll District. Black Chicken stands as the ultimate expression of Zinfandel from the cool southern Napa Valley.
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes:
Showing the influence of the breezy and fog-laced Oak Knoll District, the wine offers rich, plush fruit, delicate acidity and a structure defined by well-ripened, fine-grained tannins. Vibrant aromas of black cherry, dried herbs, and sandalwood on the nose. Expansive on the palate with notes of blackberry, orange peel, plum, and baking spices all driven to a long finish by balanced acidity.
2023 Dickerson Vineyard
Zinfandel, St. Helena, Napa Valley
Passion for a Crown Jewel
Grapenuts: Not “Just for Breakfast”
Bob Biale is our Vineyard Guy. He grew up working in them, then stewarding them, and now curating them. One of his favorite roles at the winery is bringing important vineyards to our portfolio. Sometimes they’re undiscovered treasures, and sometimes… they’re established icons. Enter Dickerson Vineyard.
This is a vineyard in St. Helena that was a crown jewel for Ravenswood’s Vineyard Designations for decades. In 2022 Joel Peterson graciously invited us to share in its bounty. The vineyard has a track record for deliciousness, but almost as important to our curator, it has owners who share our passion for preserving traditions of the land and family.
Seventy-some years ago, Dr. Bill Dickerson bought vineyards in St. Helena with a few friends. This group of psychiatrists wittily named their venture Grapenuts, LLC. Eventually Bill would be the last Grapenut standing after buying his partners out and was on the brink of replacing the old Zinfandel vines, when on the very day the bulldozers were flipping their ignition switches, Joel Peterson of Ravenswood fame—and Dickerson running buddy—called a halt. He’d done some research and discovered that these were some of the oldest Zinfandel vines in the Napa Valley, over 100 years old now. Bill Dickerson wanted to preserve such an esteemed heritage, and so the Zin remained.
After being effective stewards of the land for decades, Bill and his wife Jane tragically died in the Thailand tsunami of 2004. The vineyards were transitioned to the capable hands of their son Drew Hagen and his family who have the same passions for tradition and preservation.
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes:
Exuberant aromas of raspberry, cedar, clove, dried herbs, and hints of stone fruit. Richly layered with flavors of red cherry, citrus peel, pomegranate, and allspice on the palate. Expansive on the finish, the wine is completed by well-ripened tannins.
Cases Produced: 226
2022 E.B.A.
Petite Sirah, Napa Valley
The idea of a winery holding vintage wines for extra development before release is not a new one and is historically cross-cultural. Many regions use the term “reserve” for such bottlings.
At Biale, we use an acronym E.B.A. – Extended Barrel Aged. In certain vintages we hold back a small number of barrels of our crème de la crème of Petite Sirah to allow for extra development – up to an additional year in barrel. The extra time in barrel is very kind to the deep fruit and sturdy tannins of Petite Sirah – (well, the right Petite Sirah) adding an extra dimension of fine texture to the deep core of dark fruit the grape variety is famous for.
In the glass it adds up to heightened aromatics and a lengthier and spectacularly broad finish – what a French winemaker might call le queue du paon, or the tail of the peacock. A similar result is attained in aging in bottle, but in barrel the effect is superior, we opted for superior.
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes:
Inviting and warm tones on the nose with notes of blueberry, black olive, pastry, and cardamom. Broad across the pallet with flavors of coffee, blackberry, marzipan, and baking spices, the wine is completed by tannins finely woven by the additional time in barrel.
Cases Produced: 137
2023 Gaudi Carli
Barbera, Calistoga, Napa Valley
Rare Gem
Next to Petite Sirah, Barbera may be the most under appreciated grape in California. In Napa Valley, where the “savage grape” Cabernet Sauvignon is king, Barbera is practically nonexistent. Maybe that’s why we love the rare Gaudi Carli vineyard so much – we have a big soft spot for stray dogs. This one happens to have a huge heart plus pedigree. Barbera is one of the classic varieties of northern Italy and produces some of our favorite wines to serve with meals.
At Gaudi Carli in Calistoga, we are dealing with a little patch of the only old vine Barbera we know of in Napa Valley and it is loaded with character. Whom we have to thank for sticking with this 80-year-old vineyard is the Torrigino family, who together over decades, have kept the scant last acre of Gaudi Carli’s original vineyards going. Just amazing it’s still there…
Winemaker Notes:
Vibrant notes of plum, cherry, and dried herbs on the nose. Delicate on the palate with layered flavors of rhubarb, strawberry preserves, and hazelnut. Persistent, juicy acidity, and finely-textured tannins lead to a mouthwatering finish.
Cases Produced: 70
2023 Grande Vineyard
Zinfandel, Napa Valley
A Secret Portal to Old Napa
It’s hard to believe that this kind of family legacy farm with its old vines still exists in modern era Napa Valley. Credit the Rossi family and their indomitable spirit of devotion to the land and family tradition.
Theodosio Grande came to America from Venice, Italy, in 1919 and planted this vineyard the year his daughter Dorothy was born in 1920. Incredibly enough, Dorothy cared for the farm until her passing at the age of 102, alongside her son, Tony Rossi. Tony now tends the ranch with wife Rosemary.
The vineyard is a hidden delight off the Silverado Trail near the town of Napa, and Dorothy’s farm cottage is as pristine as the day it was built by her father a century ago. And oh the wine that comes from Theodosio’s stalwart original vines, remarkable indeed.
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes:
Warm and inviting on the nose with aromas of blackberry preserves, vanilla, and dried herbs. Focused on the palate with flavors of black plum, cardamom, and fennel seeds all completed by finely-woven, refined tannins.
Cases Produced: 334
2023 Monte Rosso Vineyard®
Zinfandel, Moon Mountain, Sonoma County
There’s nothing quite like the Monte Rosso Vineyard®. The vineyard showcases huge, twisting, gnarled, mountain-rooted Zinfandel vines with a stunning view of Sonoma Valley, San Francisco, and the Bay Area. The vines date back to the 1880s and are still producingriveting wines today.
Louis M. Martini purchased this lofty site on the Sonoma side of the Mayacamas Mountains shortly after Prohibition. Labeled originally as “California Mountain Zinfandel”, this site became the main source for many of Martini’s compelling, age-worthy wines. Over the years, the Martini family, and now the Gallo family, have generously shared some of their legendary Monte Rosso Vineyard® fruit with several Zinfandel winemakers, including Biale. At an average of about 1500 feet elevation, with reddish, volcanic rock, and iron-enriched soil, Monte Rosso Vineyard® speaks clearly and firmly to its sense of place. This region produces tantalizing red wines that will make you reflect on the site where it’s grown. Monte Rosso Vineyard® is a national treasure, and we are proud and fortunate enough to be able to craft a California classic from these historic grapevines. Long live Monte Rosso Vineyard®!
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes:
A characteristically Moon Mountain note of chaparral underlies aromas of blackberry, anise, and pomegranate molasses. Driven by Monte Rosso’s® distinctive vibrant acidity, the palate shows flavors of cedar, black cherry, dried herbs, and nutmeg. Finely-woven tannins extend the wine towards an elegant finish.
Cases Produced: 244
2023 Old Kraft Vineyard
Zinfandel, St. Helena, Napa Valley
Preservation at its Finest
The Old Kraft Vineyard is one of the vineyards we have a longstanding relationship with in St. Helena, the other being the Varozza Vineyard. They are just a mile or so from each other, but the flavor profiles between the two would make you think they are located worlds apart. Well, that may be a bit extreme, but you get the point. The flavors of the Zinfandel from the Old Kraft Vineyard are bright with fresh acidity and fruit characteristics.
Bill and Margie Hart are the proud owners of this picturesque property on the western side of the quaint town of St. Helena. It is just below the Mayacamas Mountain range with Spring Mountain soaring above. The original head-trained vines were planted in 1891 by German immigrant winemaker, Franz Kraft. Mr. Kraft’s winery is now known as the highly acclaimed Spottswoode Winery that sits just south of the Old Kraft Vineyard. Bill and Margie have been the stewards of these vines since 2001 and took on the task of bringing this property back to its original glory. There is one section left of the original vines, from where we source our fruit, had to be replanted in the early 2000s. When the Harts decided to revitalize the vineyard, they enlisted the help of the local Zin expert – Bob Biale. The hard work sure has paid off and the Harts have saved a little slice of Napa Valley history. We applaud them for doing so and are happy that we can continue to enjoy the fruits of their labor.
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: Notes of black cherry, orange peel, fennel seed, and baking spice on the nose. Mouth filling on the palate and framed by finely-woven tannins, the wine exhibits flavors of blackberry preserves, plum, fresh fig, sage, and wet slate.
Cases Produced: 341
2023 Pagani Ranch
Zinfandel, Sonoma County
(Included in shipment 4)
‘Dino-mite’ in a Bottle
Many 19th century immigrants from Italy found the Napa and Sonoma Valleys to be reminiscent of home. Encouraged by the similar climate and terrain, these new Americans put their farming expertise into practice, much to the benefit of their families and the winemaking prestige of these valleys. Not only did they know which grape varieties would thrive in our soils, they knew how to make the wine sing in the bottles: field blending.
Pagani Ranch is one such vineyard. When Felice Pagani immigrated from Fenegro, Italy, near the Swiss border in 1883, he soon began caretaking two mostly Zinfandel vineyards in Sonoma. Eventually he purchased adjacent vineyards; and of course, he field blended them. Most of the original vines still produce fruit. Alicante, Lenoir, Petite Sirah, Carignane, and several other heritage varieties are sprinkled among the grand old Zinfandel vines, making for a delicious and singular glass of Zin.
Pagani Ranch is today farmed by Felice’s granddaughter Norma Pagani Amantite and her son Dino Amantite, who take great care to maintain Felice’s legacy. We are proud to capture the literal fruits of their labors in a dynamite bottle of Zin. This very small bottling from their old vines displays the unique characteristics of their gravelly loam site and the inspired field blend so prized by our forefather winemakers.
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes:
Rich and resinous on the nose with aromas of bramble fruits, leather, and kirsch. Enveloping on the palate with notes of cedar, black cherry, dried herbs, and cocoa powder. Persistent on the finish with well-balanced acidity and finely-tuned tannins.
Cases Produced: 338
2023 Royal Punishers
Petite Sirah, Napa Valley
Historic Hero Variety
Petite Sirah was the most commonly planted grape in Napa Valley for nearly a century and now we are witnessing a resurgence and new appreciation for this historic hero variety!
Known for its dark color, firm structure, and deep blue and black fruit flavors, it is perfectly suited to Napa Valley’s moderate and dry growing season.
Petite Sirah was also a favorite grape among winemakers looking to pump up underpowered wines in need of deep fruit, color, and structure. Its natural versatility made it a great blending component to all red varieties, including Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes:
Warm and inviting with notes of blackberry, cedar, plum, and wet slate on the nose. Rich on the palate with clove, blackberry, fig, and white pepper. Elegant, mouth-coating tannins frame this wonderfully complex Napa Valley Petite Sirah.
